Punctures!!! Grrrrrrrr

[shirley_hkg]

They supplied pneumatic tyres already. They should have offered tubeless to customers, if they wanted more sales by selling more products. People are willing to pay.

[Raro]

:dance

The whole setup fits perfectly and the chair looks very compact. Plus, with the 3.00-10 gear ratio you gain a bit of top speed, which I've never seen before. Did a manual brake on an electric wheelchair come like that as standard?

[shirley_hkg]

Did a manual brake on an electric wheelchair come like that as standard?

YES.

2.75-10 tyre looks more balanced on my other chair.

[Raro]

Also on an Arrow? 2.75-10 which is wider, right?

[Raro]

Sorry, I meant narrower but with a slightly smaller overall diameter.

[Burgerman]

Smaller diameter than what? Its on a 10 inch rim. So 2 inches larger diameter to begin with.

Normal industry chaitrs use 3.00 x 8 tyres.

So 3 inches top. 8 inch rim. 3 inches at bottom. So 3+8+3 =14 inch total.

A 10 inch rim with 2.75 tyre is: 2.75 + 10 + 2.75 = 15.5 inches diameter and 1/4 inch narrower.

My 120/70 - 8 TYRES, are 120mm wide tyres use a lower sidewall at 70% of the width. So those are 120mm x 0.75 of that 120 tall. Thats about 14.5 inches overall but nice and wide.

[Raro]

I wasn't comparing a 300-10 3+10+3=16 like the one in the photo with a 2.75-10 2.75+10+2.75 =15.5 which is the one Shirley mentions; therefore, it has a smaller diameter.

[Burgerman]

Yes, its smaller, but not much. Its a lot bigger than a normal chair wheel. You really need a way to lower the rear as it tips the chair forwards like you are going downhill all the time! Maybe it wont need batteries!

[acid_coke]

Do the smaller casters fit an F5?

[Burgerman]

What size castors or tyres does your chair have?

[Burgerman]

Non of these wheels or tyres are going to be plug and play. If you want tubeless tyres you need tubeless rims. All that really matters is that the overall outer diameter and width is either the same or close to the same. Or different in the way YOU want. And then it will require that you get different bearings, maybe different axles, different spacers etc. If its a drive whee you will need to make or have made an adapter. How easy that is depends on whats existing, and what wheels you buy inc the sizes.

So it basically depends on you.

If it was my own chair, I never give it a thought. I look what exists, decide what I want, figure out dimensionally if that possible or practical and then just do whatever it takes. So I dont know what you are looking at, what sizes or types (tubeless?) etc. And would need to take a permobil apart.

Sometimes its simple! A different spacer and good to go. Other times it ends up as a major excersize in engineering...

I have 5 chairs. Non of them ended up with stock rims/tyres on... Because once you try tubeless and fatter tyres you get it! Nothing else is any good. But I dont normally include casters in tubeless as they dont matter. You get to the pub anyway...

[shirley_hkg]

Everything the same but 2.75-10 tyre.

[Burgerman]

Look at the angle of the caster barrel. Its supposed to be vertical.

[Raro]

The standard wheelchair is also slightly inclined,

[shirley_hkg]

What made me swapping to tubeless ?

He went home with a bolt unnoticed, as you can see the tyre wasn't losing air at all.

Only the faint sound of that bolt hitting the road caught his attention later on.

[Burgerman]

The standard wheelchair is also slightly inclined,

If thats true then its built incorrectly or configured incorrectly. A caster should always be totally vertical. If theres an error at all it should be very slight.
It affects stability and causes the chair to rise and fall as the caster rotates. Why is that bad? On a level surface, as you manoever around there are times when one caster is facing the opposite direction to the other. So one forwards (which lifts the chair in the image), and one backwards which lowers it. So not having them both vertical causes one to leave the ground. And slop around and chatter. We only go slow so it doesent matter as much but from an engineering standpoint its wrong.

If these were not caster and on say a motorcycle or a car wheel then the angle of that "barrel" usually points forwards a good few degrees for stability and to make the suspension and caster bearing work better. It loads them in the correct direction. It puts bump forces into pushing the wheel up instead of back.

If a barrel is leaning backwards then it needs the rear of the chair setting lower.

[Raro]

You're right, besides, the ones I saw were only in catalog images, which are also misleading.

[acid_coke]

What size castors or tyres does your chair have?

The casters are 210x65 and I think the width can easily increased. The height not a lot. Maybe 1cm more diameter.

So sadly the nice alu wheels will probably not fit.

But these should definitely fit:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007156512831.html

Altough I really don't like the plastic wheels.

[shirley_hkg]

Look at the angle of the caster barrel. Its supposed to be vertical.

You're right, but I have to compromise to adapt to tubeless rims.

8" rims won't fit. 10" is the smallest to accept my motors, without widening the track width.

[Burgerman]

Yes. Those things are problematic in may ways!

[Kande_ian]

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11328&hilit=punctures&start=90#p215080
For anyone thinking about trying these, here is a photo of the 10" version of the tubeless castor fitted to my wife's Dietz Sango FWD.

I was planning on replacing the bearings with stainless as BM suggests but have NOT yet done so because the axle bolt on the Dietz is only M8 and I'm not aware of any readily available 32mm OD 8mm ID bearings.

I didn't want to modify the forks to take a larger diameter axle, so instead I made up two pairs of stepped stainless spacers with 8mm ID bores to trial with the supplied 6002 bearing.
The outer part of the spacers is 25mm long x 20mmOD and the inner part is 15mm long x14.98mm OD to be a snug fit in the bearing bore.
Assembled, the castors are a close fit in the width of the fork (one of tyres rubbed on the side of its fork when it was inflated to 40psi to make it seat properly but it is not obviously rubbing at 9psi).

Inflation is easier than the previous tubed tyres I'd fitted to the standard Dietz rim - with those it was very difficult to apply a pump or airline and it was easy to lose all the air just trying to measure the pressure with a low pressure tyre gauge.

Next thing is to see how they work out in use - hopefully encouraged by improving spring weather.

[Burgerman]

Might get a few of those.

[shirley_hkg]

when it was inflated to 40psi to make it seat properly

It took so high pressure to hear it pop, overcoming the bead ?

[Burgerman]

You should use tyre lube stuff. I have a tub of black stuff here instead of the usual white. So it doesent look a mess... But thats actually a good thing. Its less likely to come off the bead when you land a wheelie or whatever...

[Kande_ian]

when it was inflated to 40psi to make it seat properly

It took so high pressure to hear it pop, overcoming the bead ?

Probably didn't need to go that high but I wanted to make sure they seated against the rims and their volume is so small that applying the airline to them gets the pressure up very quickly once they do start to seal.

[Kande_ian]

Might get a few of those.

The rims look pretty well made, I'm less convinced about the tyres, I guess we'll find out how well they stay on at low pressure and how well they'll last.

They are also about four times the price Shirley quoted by the time you get them to the UK, so not a no-brainer.
Might do better on Alibaba rather than Aliexpress for multiple pairs.