WheelchairDriver

I'm looking for rims for my Bounder. PCD is 4x90mm, bore is 50mm.
I found one that'd fit but not enough width (I want 4.5"): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004375059401.html
Any idea where I'd find one?

No.

But buy those rims.

Then get an online laser company to make you some flat spacers.
How wide do you want to go?
Get some 6 inch flat plate alloy disks cut, with 4 bolt holes and a 50mm centre hole...
If they cant cut these thick enough just get 4 or 6 cut. They go in the centre of those rims.

But heres your problem. You really want TUBELESS tyres and rims.
So look at tubeless aircraft rims. Like the Hegar ones I used for e.g with a alloy centre plate that has rubber sealing O rings and tubeless halfs. Those are available in many widths.

These rims are 5 inches wide for e.g.
And 6 inch wide TUBELESS puncture resistant kevlar reinforced K shield tyres...

Below rims came from here:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/lg ... ekits.html
They have all sorts.

Bounder themselves sell 13x4 rims with 1" or 2" plastic spacer. I wonder if I could just 3D print it. Would it be dangerous you think?

No. But the rims will need tubes... So punctures or deflations are probable at some point.

I know I've been using tubes for my entire life. I get punctures once a year or so. Those are $20. If tubeless rims are much more expensive is it really worth it?

Since I cant get out, walk, I would be stranded. So absolutely! No punctures since tubeless in 99.

Also £20 x 26 years is rather a lot!!!

My tubeless rims were £6 each aliexpress. Today they are 18 to 35 depending on seller. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006907474879.html

Shirley is checking if it's possible make an adapter for common ones found on Aliexpress.

Its always possible.
I fitted non stock rims to every chair I ever had. Always quite easy really. You can make adapters by ordering blank laser cut disks and drilling/countersinking a few holes for e.g.
Heres some shirley hubs, for the rear drive Dietz chairs.



Heres some I made for the salsa. BM2, BM3, other chairs and rims...
by ordering disks and drilling/tapping on my bed... Or whatever.

Many ways! All that matters is determination! And action.

Yeah... At that price it'd be dumb not to do it. Specifically when 21st wants $500 for a pair of rims ONLY, tires are $300. Someone paying $300 for tires while it can be had on Amazon for $20 is just dumb!

All you need to do is choose a good tyre. 13 inch is too small. 14 or 15 has much better options. 120/70-8 is about the same diameter as a stock 14 inch tyre. Remember a tyre 1 inch bigger only lifts a chair 1/2 of that. And thats not even noticible. Then choose a rim. Doesent have to be 6 inch. Can be 8, or 10 or 12... Bigger tyres can be lower profile.

If it is, an issue adjust suspension. Its all just mind over metal.

Rims are measured in inches. diameters are full inches and refer to the "hole" in the tyre across the bead.
Rim width is measured in J meaning the gap the tyre beads sit inside so a 4.5J rim is probably about 5 inches wide overall due to the thickness of the metal where the tyres sit.


145 all terrain tyres should be about 8 psi?
What is the actual rim diameter in inches? Is it intended for 6 inch tyres? J Width? You need:

Width
4.5 inches for 145/70 - 6 tyres (about 14 inch or a fraction less)
5 inches for 15-6.00 - 6 tyres like the kenda reinforced ones or turf tyres.
3.5 to 4 inches for 120/70-8 tyres.

The problem with 145/70-6 ATV type tyres is that they feel "bobbly" as you roll. Which you learn to ignore.

But they last me around 1 month rolling in summer on hard surfaces like roads and footpaths. After 3 weeks they look like smooth lumpy balloons!

Thats why I swapped to the Kenda turf tyres that seem to last forever. At least a few years.

These last a month.
Feel lumpy!
Look great...
145/70-6 all terrain.

These can fit the same rim.
Last forever.

And are puncture proof.

These are

LEFT Kenda K500 K Shield 15 x 6.00 - 6 tubeless.
RIGHT any old 145/70 all terrain tubeless tyres...

Yes. I take them to the motorcycle shop 2 streets away. Takes them 10 mins.

You CAN do it yourself, on the 8 inch rims but its not easy. Unless 6 inch Hegar tubeless split rims. Which you can easily assemble yourself.

So Shirley, would it be easier for you to find 8" rims?

Okay let me know. I'll send you the money.

How about a simple e.g. 10 mm thick disk on the OUTSIDE of the wheel with a 50mm center hole and holes matching the chair's bolt spacing drilled both through that plate and through the wheel. That would spread the bolt forces and protect the wheel from failure at the holes near the 75mm cutout.

I would replace that chain with a better quality EK or RK branded O Ring motocycle one.

Let me tell you a story.
Big superbike. 90s. Needed tyres so while at it thought I would fit a new set of sprockets and a chain.

Chain choice.
Stock RK O ring chain, about £130 with sprockets.
Heavy Duty NON O ring chain (as used in industrial applications and poor ££ bikers) same sprockets as above. £75...

I ordered the cheaper HD non Oring chain. In 1 WEEK it was destroyed. Had to adjust tension daily! It just kept getting looser...
The O Ring chain I removed had lasted me 2 full years of quite serious abuse. Drag racing, wheelies, 170mph stuff. I was only changing it because it was a little corroded and lookd bad. It had never needed any tension adjustment in all that time and had outlived 4 or 5 tyres.

O-ring chains just LAST. Probably 7 to 10x longer. Only downside is that the O rings that seal in the grease also make it stiffer. So you waste some energy (range). With lithium and a sensible sized pack its not an issue. Non O ring chains are dismal by comparison.

Modern motorcycles just wouldnt be possible ithout O Ring chains.