The 'original' spec that I recall reading called for 2 (3?) 6mm grub screws to locate in the 6mm keyway of the gearbox shaft.
This has some merit but should the screws loosen the shaft is free to turn (screws shear off) and slide out of the hub (wheel falls off).
The example we saw presented had 2 x 2mm grub screws!
http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1745&p=26540&hilit=hub#p26533These would provide a much smaller 'holding wheel on and resisting shaft turning in hub' force than the 6mm screws as they cannot be done up anywhere as tight and if the shaft did slip it will accelerate in the hub before suddenly stopping as the screws meet the other side of the keyway. I can't be bothered doing the calculations of torque vs shearing a 2mm screw as I suspect it would not take much and am certain that a couple of forward / reverse movements with a loosened screw would do the trick.
The taperlock fixing has been widely used in machines and agricultural applications and is proven by design and experience to work well in excess of its specified torque rating and not come loose. It is probable that you could do one up and remove the locking screws without it loosening (for a while!) as you have to drive the taper apart to remove the fixing from the shaft.
I have had 2 hubs made from BF12 'bolt on' hubs by simply removing the 'bolt on' flange and tapping wheel mounting holes in the hub part. Spacers are required to set the wheels lateral position. So far this has cost about $100 + donated labour.
http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2162&p=28675&hilit=hub#p28618The spacer could probably just as well be a stack of washers but since there is a lathe going...