DWIZ-ADAPT

[Burgerman]

The only ay to know the motors actual speed is to ask the scooter manufacturer if that motor is 4, 6 or 8 mph.

[svhashemii]

[quote="woodygb"]Vero / stripboard version of Anubis schematic.... note there is a small mod to the original schematic.

This fits into a 9v PP3 Battery holder box.

Wizard_orange_programmer.jpg

dynamic dongle schematic jpega comp.jpg

Hi everybody,
Thanks for sharing the designed schematic of DWIZ-Adapt.
I tested it and used, it works very well but it's much better to replace R5 (820 Ohm 0.5w) resistor with two 10k ohms of 1/4 watt resistors in parallel!
You don't need a Heater beside your programmer, Right?
Regards,

[Porkchops]

Hi does anyone have the PCB file to order some boards as the link is not working?

http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=16657&accesskey=

Finished!
I got 10 PCB's left over, if anyone is interested in a bare PCB send me a PM.

[woodygb]

I would suggest building this version.

Note that you MUST use the USB -TTL Adapter type shown in the pic.

[Porkchops]

Ok I'm going to give it a go could give an example of the z1 diode and schottky diode just so I order the correct ones please

[woodygb]

9.1v Zener BZX85C9V1

Schottky diode either BAT85 or 1N5711 have both worked fine for me.

[fabrasil]

Hi there!

Someone had this circuit? Oor pcb tos sale?

Thank

Well since it is my own design and not a copy or imitation of the original I guess It is OK to share it with you.
Tested on a Rhyno2 controller.

You can order the PCB here.
http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=16657&accesskey=

Just a word of caution!
NOT for medical use!
This board is EXPERIMENTAL and I designed it for the love of electronics and robots building hobby.
This is NOT a Dynamics product, nor am I in any way related with the company.
Use at your own risk!

[woodygb]

Why not try the simpler build a few posts up?

[fabrasil]

Found, sorry

Why not try the simpler build a few posts up?

[StubbornStan]

Hello, I have a Golden Compass GP600 chair that I’m fixing up to donate. The Shark DK-PMA motor controller was water-damaged, so I bought a similar one on eBay. All was going well until I tried to go up a hill and it nearly stalled. The Dynamic manual suggests this behavior is due to incorrect motor compensation settings in the controller. Eventually that led me here. I was delighted to find adapter schematics and I built the Anubis RS232 adapter. I can read the values with the Wizard 5 software but I can’t write them. Can someone help me out?

Also does anyone have an idea what the motor compensation should be in milliohms for a GP600 or similar chair? The Shark manual provides a tuning procedure but it would be nice to know I’m in the right ballpark. Many thanks.

[Burgerman]

Which wizard 5 software?
What access level? You cant set advanced settings with a dealer or user level programmer.

Also, it is a very small indoor or shopping centre chair. As such it uses weak electrical components. So 2 pole motors, and a 50A power module. If you show those components a hill they will have a nervous breakdown and get warm. And then thermal rollback happens. This reduces torque and available current to even less. Often making it almost undrivable. Another thing that can cause this is small weak or unsuitable batteries with high impedance. So cheap AGM chinese made batteries etc. Or old ones. These cannot make adequate current. This would be made even worse on a hill especially if the smaller of the 2 battery sizes are used. It can use U1 size (dont!) or 22NF sized. Even those are pretty small for a powerchair.

So it could be any of those things. Or a combination of them.

If it IS a compensation setting, then asking the manufacturer the correct setting would be easiest. Or gradually increase it in small steps until it responds correctly. Go too far and the chair can be dangerous, be unstoppable, and break your legs or house. So only change it n small steps!

If you need a more advanced programmer you need either a special copy of the software (hacked) or an OEM level dongle. PM me.

[Reliably9870]

Hi Everyone -

I'm following along with this thread to get the software running and adapter built. I've ordered the relevant parts on digikey, and they should be here in a few days. I think I understand everything, except for the voltage levels on the one-wire DATA line on the Dynamic controller side of things. I put the adapter circuit into LTspice and it looks like the DATA signal is between 2.4V-5V when receiving. Is that right? (See uploaded image)

What's expected for the controller-TX case? I see the 9.1V zener there, and I assume there's a higher voltage protocol coming from the controller itself? 12V? 15V?

[woodygb]

Quote from Anubis who devised the first adapter.

It may look like a RS-232 serial but it's not RS-232 standard.
It is Serial comunication alright but neither RS-232 nor TTL logic levels!
It's more like TTL-serial with CMOS voltage levels.

Logic level 0 = 1-2V
logic level 1 = 10V

TTL
logic level 0 (LOW) = 0-0.8v
logic level 1 (HIGH) = 2v-5v

while the RS-232 levels are

Logic 0 = anywhere from +3 to +25V.
Logic 1 = anywhere from -3 to -25V (negative voltage)

On most PCs these signals swing from -13 to +13V.

CMOS gate circuits have input and output signal specifications that are quite different from TTL. For a CMOS gate operating at a power supply voltage of 5 volts, the acceptable input signal voltages range from 0 volts to 1.5 volts for a “low” logic state, and 3.5 volts to 5 volts for a “high” logic state. “Acceptable” output signal voltages (voltage levels guaranteed by the gate manufacturer over a specified range of load conditions) range from 0 volts to 0.05 volts for a “low” logic state, and 4.95 volts to 5 volts for a “high” logic state:

[woodygb]

Here is a link to 7Gluk's original diagram without the addition of R10 & D1 and Switch for P.G.D.T. programming .

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... 40#p159436

[Reliably9870]

Ah, great. Thank you. I must have missed that page.

I realize now I had Rx/Tx swapped in my schematic above, but I'm still I'm curious what's really happening on the R-series side of all this with the weird protocol... Does anyone have pictures of the inside of one of these DR50/90s? I'm dying to know what the Inhibit/Programming pin is attached to. I did see a footnote in the R-series install manual stating, "It is the manufacturer's responsibility to ensure that any configurable interface pin that is to be used as a Battery Charger Inhibit pin is correctly configured and tested. The maximum voltage on the inhibit pin must not exceed 3 V if a battery voltage is to be detected when the battery charger is connected". Seems relevant, but not quite sure yet...

Anyway... I'll build first, ask questions later...

[Reliably9870]

Well, I've made both the 7Gluk and the Anubus circuits......

I can see on my scope that the "DATA" pin is sending data in both versions, but I haven't had any luck with the cracked Wizard 5 tool connecting to the DR50. In all cases, it just scans endlessly but never connects. I've been using the an FT232L-based cable, the TTL-232RG-VSW5V-WE (https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Docume ... CABLES.pdf), which offers 5V USB-to-TTL conversion, as well as RX/TX inversion through software (FT-prog application). I've tried every combination of the 7Gluk, Anubis, and Tx/Rx inversion and I cannot get this dang program to connect to the DR50! I thought that the software configuration of the Tx/Rx would do the trick, but it doesn't. What tipped me off to this is the fact that 7Gluk's version doesn't invert the Tx signal, but Anubus' version does. I suspected that there was some inversion going on with the different upstream hardware they were using, and that I could account for either case with software control... guess not...

So..... I've gone ahead and ordered a CH340C (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15096), CH340G (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14050), and a HL340 (https://www.amazon.com/Serial-HL-340-RS ... B07WZTXQCJ) cable, as suggested in this post following Anubis' circuit: https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... 400#p80400

[woodygb]

The Anubis schematic uses a SERIAL signal as the output.... So https://www.amazon.com/Serial-HL-340-RS ... B07WZTXQCJ should work fine.


7Gluks schematic uses a TTL signal as the output BUT you MUST use a specific board as mentioned HERE...
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... 40#p162180

NOTE:- I have tried multiple different USB adapter boards and chips... NOTHING else worked.

So you want THIS fake FTDI Board.
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL- ... B00IJXZQ7C

[woodygb]

Have you also updated the Wizard5 software ...click on Help ... then...Check internet for updates.

[woodygb]

Anubis veroboard layout and pinout.

Board in PP3 battery box.

[Reliably9870]

None of the above works. I don't know why.

I've tried both circuits, with four different USB-to-serial converters, and every combination of signal inversion. I've tried downloading the uncracked Wizard 5 and Wizard 6, and neither program will connect. I've tried using the cracked version and it won't connect. Neither version seems to actually download anything and update itself. Perhaps on newer DR50 models there's an extra layer of security that isn't captured from these older hacks.

The reason that some of the USB-to-serial versions work and some don't is because they have different signal polarities and inversions programmed into them. For example, the DB9 version produces an active-low output, but the CH340 versions from Sparkfun are active-high output. This is the reason I started with the programmable FT232 cable - each one of these configurations can be configured with the FT_Prog application. That didn't work, so I thought maybe I was still missing something, but none of the recommended adapters work.

I really only started this to get rid of the backup beeping, but I can do that by disconnecting the cable (at the expense of some of the other warning beeps). I'm out of ideas at this point...

[woodygb]

If Wizard 6 will not work it is either your programming builds or a faulty controller board on the programming socket.

Info ... The Anubis board communicates with a SERIAL SIGNAL ...the 7Gluk board with a TTL Signal.

Note that a inverted TTL signal is not really SERIAL but can often work.

Just in case you are not aware , the convention for programming connections between the cable and the controller is TX ( Talk ) connects to RX ( Receive ) ...HOWEVER on my drawing of the 7Gluk I have deliberately annotated the drawing with TX of USB and RX of USB.

This statement may not be very helpful ...The leads that I have work fine on a DR50-A01 that I have.

And finally ...just in case ... you have turned the scooter ON ?

[woodygb]

Info ... The Anubis board communicates with a SERIAL SIGNAL ...the 7Gluk board with a TTL Signal.

Hmmmm ...NOT very clear .. The Anubis board outputs a SERIAL SIGNAL , and thus requires a SERIAL cable from the board to the computer...the 7Gluk board outputs a TTL Signal ( of sorts ) and only works with the cheap fake FTDI board.

[ebonv]

Hello everyone,
Sorry, but I'm using GG translate.
I'm working on a story project that will use a DX POWER module DXPMB2 to activate an object on stage.
The hardware is salvaged from a chair, and the goal is to control it autonomously with a Raspberry Pi. I'll come back with lots of questions once I've read the posts that interest me.
Can the DXPOWER module work without a connected control box, just plug into the programming socket?

Bonjour à tous,
Désolé mais j'utilise GG translate.
je suis sur un projet scénaristique qui devrait utiliser un DX POWER module DXPMB2 pour actionner un objet sur scène.
Le matériel est récupéré sur une chaise et l'objectif est de le piloter en autonome par un Raspberry PI. Je reviendrait pour plein de question une fois lu les posts qui m'intéresse.
Le DXPOWER module peut -il fonctionner sans un boitier de commande connecté, juste brancher sur la prise de programmation ?

Etienne

[Burgerman]

Can the DXPOWER module work without a connected control box, just plug into the programming socket?

No. Do yourself a favour. Buy a robotics controller. You have no idea how involved this is going to get.

[ebonv]

Je travail pour un amis qui souhaite utiliser ce qu'il a récupéré.
Si on arrive pas à utiliser ce matériel, d'autre décisions serront prise.
J'ai commencé le circuit d'adaptation du câble de programation.
Je doit utiliser le programe "spécial" pour continuer.

I'm working for a friend who wants to use what he's salvaged.
If we can't use this equipment, other decisions will be made.
I've started the circuit to adapt the programming cable.
I need to use the "special" program to continue.

[Burgerman]

PM ME.

[Mattigins]

I've read this post many times. But i am still confused on what i actually need to communicate with the board. I probably want to use TTL. My scooter has an XLR3 port that can be utilised for programming. Would someone mind consolidating a list of things i'd need to go from XLR3 to usb. Also can an arduino Uno be used instead of the ftdi board for communications? I'd utilised one for UART before.

[Mattigins]

I've read this post many times. But i am still confused on what i actually need to communicate with the board. I probably want to use TTL. My scooter has an XLR3 port that can be utilised for programming. Would someone mind consolidating a list of things i'd need to go from XLR3 to usb. Also can an arduino Uno be used instead of the ftdi board for communications? I'd utilised one for UART before.

Sorry about the double post. I'm not sure how to edit my post (if thats an option here)

I just wanted to mention i am working with a DR50-B01. From my understanding the electronics are the same as the A01 variant, just the B01 comes with a metal shield.

[Mattigins]

None of the above works. I don't know why.

I've tried both circuits, with four different USB-to-serial converters, and every combination of signal inversion. I've tried downloading the uncracked Wizard 5 and Wizard 6, and neither program will connect. I've tried using the cracked version and it won't connect. Neither version seems to actually download anything and update itself. Perhaps on newer DR50 models there's an extra layer of security that isn't captured from these older hacks.

The reason that some of the USB-to-serial versions work and some don't is because they have different signal polarities and inversions programmed into them. For example, the DB9 version produces an active-low output, but the CH340 versions from Sparkfun are active-high output. This is the reason I started with the programmable FT232 cable - each one of these configurations can be configured with the FT_Prog application. That didn't work, so I thought maybe I was still missing something, but none of the recommended adapters work.

I really only started this to get rid of the backup beeping, but I can do that by disconnecting the cable (at the expense of some of the other warning beeps). I'm out of ideas at this point...

I know it's been a while but i am currently having the same issues as you. I believe it is related to the inversion but the fake FTDI boards do not work with the official FT_Prog software. They give no errors but do not actually program.

[Burgerman]

I no longer have anything here that uses Dynamic stuff.
But my USB to serial connector, and Orange DWIZ adapt, plugged into and worked on many chairs in the past including the rushless ones and the version 5 hacked software. The only issue I ever had was the usual windows serial port driver fight until it connected.

So delete all greyed out drivers after choosing "hidden" in device manager, and the FTDI serial driver that was already installed for countless hobby tools, transmitters, servo programmers, chargers etc already. And the hacked one allows all 4 different programming levels including one beyond OEM. Called Advanced?