3D printing experts

[Burgerman]

I dont have a 3D printer.
I should!

But I downloaeded a part that works. But it needs what I would have considered a simple modification. That is until I tried. 3 hours later and my head hurts...

Can anyone edit a 3MF or 3mf file and remove a bit from it?

Theres a screenshot. The parts in green, all the way around need to go! Theres two arrows, those surfaces need to end up level/flush with the green raised part gone! So the whole thing will end up that much thinner. The rest of it is perfect.

So a band a few mm wide, all the way around, 360 degrees.

Because until I spend many hours learning how to do this stuff its impossible! And I need it printing in something that doesent get soft when warm so PET??

And if anyone wants to print a couple off for me thats great too. I will compensate time and effort! Paypal.

Thanks. Or is it impossible? Password 123 if it asks...

[Williamclark77]

I'll try to modify when I get to a computer tomorrow, but I find it 10 timesquicker and easier to just create a new model from scratch. Open source 3D file formats like stl, iges, etc that are not native to your cad program are a pain to work with. Most are extremely annoying when trying to CNC them due to the way they triangulate curves - instead of a smooth arc it's hundreds of little points, along with a bunch of other reasons.

If you'll do a napkin sketch with dimensions on it I can print it out and send to you even if I can't edit that file. And yes, PETG is the correct material for holding shape when a little warm. That's what I print 90 plus percent of everything I actually plan to use out of. Very chemical resistant as well.

[Burgerman]

Doing it from scratch is going to be very hard as its intricate and has many critical slots and shapes inside and out that slide and lock into place. They guy that made the one I have odered ended up redoing it over and over for weeks to get it right. A mat drawing will end up super complicated and would need to be accurate in may places to a few thousandths of an inch.

It may end up easiet to cut the one I have in the post and re-glue back together? I dont kow yet!

[JMGarage]

Sounds me that printer should calibrate and know how much is offset for real dimensions. Even You have that file, it would be different size when You print it. Depends on printer settings and filament settings.

[Burgerman]

Quite possibly!

I have Ultimaker Curer, (claims end to end printing) installed.
I have FreeCad installed hat I started to look at... For hours.

I also have DS.SolidWorks.2025.SP3.0.Premium-SSQ.
PTC.Creo.12.4.0.0.Win64-SSQ. Ai driven design...

And Prucer Slicer...

And can usually aquire anything...

All either expensive so cracked via dodgy methods, free anyway, or open source...
What do I actually really want here?
Lets say I were to buy a printer...

[Williamclark77]

I just opened the file. Nope, I can't do anything to edit that. I don't think so anyway.

You're right, it's quite a complicated little part. It's not very 3d printer friendly either. I would have to print it several times to get it just right using different support structure placement, and even then, a hand file and sanding would probably be required to get it perfect.

Think of the letter T when designing a part for easy 3d printing. The nozzle has to print onto something. It can't extrude onto air. Laying down the T prints fine. Standing up requires support structure to be built as it prints for the top to printed onto.

[Burgerman]

Thats what I was expecting... Oh well.

[acid_coke]

This is the best I could do with prusaslicer. Two cuts, delete the middle and then moving both together

[Burgerman]

I spent many hours trying to do that!
As far as I can tell, thats perfect.

Thanks! Now to get a print! Any recommendations?
I only need 2 for now. One for me and one for a freind.

Dont mind paying or commercial?

[martin007]

Which 3D program/s do you use Burgerman?

[acid_coke]

I think it would be best to get this printed with SLS (UV Resin) or SLM (Nylon Powder). Pcbway and Jlc seem like good chinese options. Not sure if there are any good services in UK.

[Burgerman]

Looked at a few already. Wil be ordering for delivery next day in UK in a few mins! Thanks!

[Williamclark77]

Good job on the edit. I use Simplify3d for printing. I have not been a huge fan of others that I have tried. I don't THINK it does much editing besides resizing and scaling.

I can not print that with good results, at least not without a good bit of trial and error.. That part is not a good design for FDM type printers like I have.

I have used Xometry and JLC before. Never for 3d printing since I do my own, but their other manufacturing services. Both did extremely well every time. I can confidently recommend either service if they deliver to your area.

[Burgerman]

Well... I already ordered to test, https://www.surfacescan.co.uk/

[ex-Gooserider]

I use FreeCad as it is Free/Open software and runs on GNU/Linux as well as those other weird systems. However like pretty much ANY CAD software that has a lot of power, it has a very steep (near vertical ) learning curve. Make sure to get the latest version, or at least one that is in the 1.x series.

There are a lot of videos about how to use it, however because there are multiple ways to accomplish most tasks, I found it confusing to look at them unless you pick ONE creator (preferably one of the major FC dev's) and stick with just his videos....

There is a program called 'Super-slicer' that is a fork of Prusa-slicer and seems to be a bit better as it has more settings options, and supports more printers than just Prusa's. My understanding is that it is the primary slicer that we use in the Asylum Digifab shop (I'm not a heavy user of that shop (yet...))

ex-Gooserider

[slomobile]

I found it confusing to look at them unless you pick ONE creator (preferably one of the major FC dev's) and stick with just his videos....
ex-Gooserider

Same experience with FreeCAD. I watched a few videos and practiced a bit specifically looking for parametric functions like Seimens NX which I had used before and loved. Got some simple models started, then frustrated because the next feature I needed had to previously have had the model started in a completely different way with a different workbench. Its not even just 1 steep learning curve. Each workbench is designed by someone else, with a different user interface and philosophy. Even learning each individually isn't enough, because the ORDER of operations matters way more than it should. Especially around the transition from 2D sketch to 3D model, or projecting a 3D model onto a 2D plane. And there are too many different opinions about how to do that.

Took an in person FreeCAD class at my local maker space and the advice was completely contradictory to the guides I had already followed online, and all we did was make a box. I asked about using parametric dimensioning as I had learned on NX, modeling a universal Lego with variables. You input the number of bumps wide x long, thin or standard height, and it generates your specific part from the parametric model. They said it could not do that, despite FreeCAD calling itself "a general purpose open source parametric 3D CAD modeler" and blamed me for learning "bad habits" from NX. So, gaslighting is also a feature.

[ex-Gooserider]

I've found it is best to stay in one workbench per project just to avoid the mixed interface issue. I usually start with a sketch and extrude it, etc.

I think they were wrong about not being able to do the Lego block w/ variable parameters, or at least I know they can do other similar operations where one changes the part design by varying the number of features...

I've done a couple of parametric parts using the spreadsheet to input constraints into the model and it worked well, but I haven't tried doing a Lego block type part so not positive.

It is also important to note that they recently had a MAJOR release a few months ago when they went from the 0.2x series to the 1.0x series after having found a fix for a couple of the major issues that used to cause severe model breakage... Make sure you are using a 1.+ release...

ex-Gooserider

[Williamclark77]

I want to see the result when it comes in! I'd also like to know what kind of plastic and printing type. This will give you an excuse to use that fancy camera and lens for good pictures.

[Burgerman]

Well...
It looked a bit rough, didnt fit as well as it should and I broke it fine tuning it!

So I got another one.

Then carefully modded and fine tuned it, sanded it until it had perfect external surfaces, then sprayed it matt black. It looked like it was machined from aluminium when I had done. But now its all assembled theres nothing really visible!

But I have a MK2 version on its way. Will photograph that...

[Williamclark77]

That sounds far better than I could have made. Designs like that just don't work with my type of printer.

I did just do a bunch of parts for my ongoing chair build that came out amazing. Factory looking. Except, of course, the biggest part. A battery box cover that took all day and about half a roll of filament to print. Not sure what I typo'd in the support structure settings or something. The support structure stuck and looks horrible. I'll redo it another day.

[TriangleEnthusiast]

Sounds like you got it figured out, thought id chime in with software and other stuff I recommend.

First is my modeling software recommendation, autodesk fusion 360, it is free for hobbyist or student use, it powerful and fairly easy to pick up, especially if you are familiar with solidworks.

You can get modified firmware for most printers called Klipper that will allow you to print at much much higher speed and in a lot of cases higher quality, it requires some additional hardware (Klipper requires Linux-based host software, typically running on a Raspberry Pi or similar single-board computer, a Micro SD card, and the Klipper firmware itself. Users also need a web interface such as Mainsail or Fluidd, and software like the Raspberry Pi Imager for installation, along with optional tools like PuTTY and WinSCP and a 3 axis accelerometer like an adxl345). you mount the accelerometer to the print head and if the bed moves you attach it to that and then run test scripts that move them at very high speed to measure the resonance at different frequencies. The raspberry pi does the heavy lifting making calculations and sending movements to the 3d printers mainboard. This modification is extremely well documented with active discord communities and is the single most impactful modification you can make to a already functioning printer.

I've tried nearly every slicer, expensive simplify 3d was great, but free universal slicers have eclipsed it. I would highly recommend Orca Slicer, its based on prusaslicer but much easier to use and has a cleaner interface and has tools to really calibrate your printer well.

Last but not least mechanically calibrate your machine, making sure all the nuts are tight and things look straight isn't enough if you want to hit that next level of quality. Square you gantries to the printer frame with something reliable like a pair of machinest 123 blocks. Don't assume the frame components are square, check and shim with small pieces of paper, and extrapolate that to the whole machine.

This is a path for the type of person who needs to modify everything they have, an obsession with continual improvement, someone who loves to tinker. It's a decent amount of work but if you find satisfaction sort of thing if worth it. If you want a turnkey solution with multicolor printing buy a bambu labs printer.

I also think learning to 3d model well before you buy a printer or if you already have one put effort into it. If all you do is print other peoples models you will soon run out of useful things to print (or add piles of useless plastic trinkets to the lanfill) and it will start to collect dust in the corner. If you can model well everything you print is exactly what you want. Opinionated take on printing but I am passionate about it.

[TriangleEnthusiast]

If you need additional help with a file or edit I'd be happy to try.

also mcmaster-carr has 3d models for almost everything they sell. i like to chop up parts to use to quickly add complex features to models.

[Williamclark77]

I've tried nearly every slicer, expensive simplify 3d was great, but free universal slicers have eclipsed it. I would highly recommend Orca Slicer, its based on prusaslicer but much easier to use and has a cleaner interface and has tools to really calibrate your printer well..

I use Simplify 3d. Bought a lifetime license many years ago before the subscription model became the norm. I don't know if they are subscription based now. Haven't looked. I just ASSume so. Back then the free slicers were far behind it. I haven't tried any others in years. I have never heard of Orca. I will try it soon based on your recommendation.

I am the nerd who designed and built my own, everything down to CNC machining my own extruders and feeders from blocks of aluminum. No need now. You can buy and modify to get about the quality for not enough higher $$$ to justify the time to design and build your own. I bought a Sanpmaker four or so years ago. Much better repeatability and rigidity than belt drives on such a large format. I have been quite happy with it. The multi color and multi extruder machines weren't as polished and affordable then at the larger build platforms I needed to print things like my chair battery box covers.

[Burgerman]

Simplify 3d cracked full
https://filecr.com/windows/simplify3d/

Orca freeware
https://filecr.com/windows/softfever-orca-slicer/

Solidworks cracked 15GB!
https://filecr.com/windows/solidworks-f ... 2910960000

solid cam for solidworks, 6GB cracked of course...
https://filecr.com/windows/solidcam-for-solidworks/

[TriangleEnthusiast]

I use Simplify 3d. Bought a lifetime license many years ago before the subscription model became the norm.

I also have the lifetime but haven't used it in ages.

[slomobile]

Klipper requires Linux-based host software, typically running on a Raspberry Pi or similar single-board computer, a Micro SD card, and the Klipper firmware itself. Users also need a web interface such as Mainsail or Fluidd, and software like the Raspberry Pi Imager for installation, along with optional tools like PuTTY and WinSCP and a 3 axis accelerometer like an adxl345). you mount the accelerometer to the print head and if the bed moves you attach it to that and then run test scripts that move them at very high speed to measure the resonance at different frequencies. The raspberry pi does the heavy lifting making calculations and sending movements to the 3d printers mainboard. This modification is extremely well documented with active discord communities and is the single most impactful modification you can make to a already functioning printer.

This is exactly the info I needed. Bought 2 old Anycubic Kossel with linear rails real cheap last year as my first personal printers that supposedly worked continuously for years in a print farm right up till they sold to me. I got warping and poor adhesion on one due to a failed plate heater and the other had miscalibrated bed height, but they both worked. RAMPS 1.4 I'm not sure what I did but trying to recalibrate bed height killed them both. People told me I needed klipper, but never said why. This accelerometer feature is definitely something I want, so I can add a direct extruder for TPE without the extra weight completely screwing it up.

Do you know if it is possible to run multiple machines (both kossels and a 10w laser engraver) on the same raspberry pi at the same time?

[Burgerman]

Watch!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1XqOZsFPrY

I just ordered that part in aluminium 3D printed. After talking to them, and looking at a few 3D prints its the only sensible way.

3D plastic printed parts are not strong, not dimensionally accurate, and seem to be a printer looking for a purpose. So I wont be buying one...

Because I can get these bits printed in metal or CNC machined at sensible prices. Will photograph these all when it arrives.

[Williamclark77]

I look forward to seeing those. They've gotten to the point that unless you do a lot and need quick turnaround there's no point in buying your own machine.

[Burgerman]

They can do stuff that you just cant at home. Not only that but if prepared to pay fast shipping 3 days to your door.

I am not, used cheap china post! (3 dollars instead of 33) but its that slow boat...

I looked online at some of their stuff. The metal printed stuff is very "grainy" like its made from sand. Way prettier than the ridges from plastics. But I have a file and some abrasive paper... And want it black anyway so it will be rattlecan satin black!

Its not even expensive. Well ONE is. 2 gets cheaper. 5 is not much more than 2. And so on. And then you win on shipping

If this part fits well, I trim it up and finish it well, spray black, supply 3 stainless allen screws then I suspect I can sell 20 or 30 a year. Is it worth it? Not really! Its a small volume part. But I might try it.

[Burgerman]

Its for this...
https://radiomasterrc.com/products/noma ... lrs-module

And these receivers
https://www.getfpv.com/geprc-gemini-xro ... 15mhz.html

I use FRSKY Tx and this module above fits many different transmitters. It gives dual 1W, 900 MHz + 2.4GHz LoRa transmissions. Its on ELRS and this is a bombproof link to the X=Band gemini Receivers. People have tested this miles across busy cities. And it easily goes say 6km or (4.5 miles) to this island for e.g with FULL signal strength and a link quality of 100 (percent)

Some people have flown these 30 + miles away on planes. Quads dont have the battery to do that...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX_uZ5xxdAU&t=1s

Same system, and you can buy a Tx with it built in, its called ELRS X-Band.

Heres another, 6 miles, 10.5km and still at 100% link quality... Must have some hellish batts in that quad. Look at its speed too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4Vy2hXiIYk