PINNED - 230Ah (245Ah certified) A grade cells Amy, Docan

[wchl25]

Need not to pay much attention to those.

Just watch out if any cell pops up during charge, except it is near the end.

Pops up during charge???? I don't know what you mean, please explain!

[Burgerman]

That looks about right. I would leave those settings for termination as they are. Can you also set a CV time limit on that charger of say 2 to 4 hours. Just in case it doesent drop to 1A at some point?

[shirley_hkg]

A cell's voltage pops up.

[Burgerman]

He means that if theres a bad connection somepace or a bad high resistance cell, that the voltage of that cell appears higher. Like it does when the voltage "pops up higher" at the end of charge past 3.45V upwards on a full cell. That cell will appear full sooner and then take a long time to end charge.

[shirley_hkg]

Doing a 150@Ah pack for 22NF battery space.
Finished measurements are 275x202x222h.

A grade cells, zero gap in between, with 0.4mΩ IR cost £250 including a BMS.

All came in with identical voltage 3.289v, and I put in 112.32Ah for the initial charge.

[shirley_hkg]

They are literally balanced during the first charge. Than 1a balance BMS took just 40 mins to bring voltage difference down to 31mV. 3mV in an hour later.

A grade cells are so easy to put them together.

[Burgerman]

A grade cells, zero gap in between, with 0.4mΩ IR cost £250 including a BMS.

Crazy

[Raro]

Hi Shirley, I wanted to ask you a few things. Besides the charging connector that looks like an XT, what is the other switch with the illuminated circle for? What is the blue wire with three small white wires screwed into the same terminal in the cell where the fuse is for? I've always understood that it's better to use the BMS only for charging, but here it's integrated into the package. Could that cause problems? I'm asking from a place of complete ignorance; I just want to understand.

[Burgerman]

I might help...
Its an ON/OFF switch for the BMS.

Charge only? You you can. Then the BMS safety protection stuff will never trip.
If you choose a BIG enough BMS that can do 200A or more pulse and its decent quality that really CAN reach that, and it a good enough one that allows a LOT of configuration, you can just set all its parameters in a way that they will never kick in and stop the chair. Which means that they no longer serve any purpose... So why have them? The JKBMS is probably the best bet.

Your choice!

The white thing with white wires is an 80A mid pack fuse. I would use 125 but thats because I am a hooligan and I know can pop 80A fuses at will. I have no clue what that oddball extra blue/white loop is for. Doesent appear to do anything.

[shirley_hkg]

Your choice!
I have no clue what that oddball extra blue/white loop is for. Doesent appear to do anything.

That's redundant and irrelevant. Ignore it .

[Raro]

Then you can turn off the BMS with the button and it no longer interferes with the chair's operation; to charge, just use a charger or power supply like the ZXD, which seems great to me.

[Burgerman]

If your chair is wired from the BMS as intended and you turn it off you dont go at all.

[Raro]

Could the chair be connected directly to the package and the BMS disconnected somehow when the chair is in use? I mean, installed on the chair with some kind of switch...

[Burgerman]

You have 2 options

1. Fit BMS or (use it externally) to charge only. The battery in both cases would use a 125A fuse and connect to the chairs controller directly.
2. Fit as intended, then set 101 setings to never interfere or do anything.

[shirley_hkg]

Could the chair be connected directly to the package and the BMS disconnected somehow when the chair is in use? I mean, installed on the chair with some kind of switch...

You don't even need an extra switch to do it.

Simply connect your chair to battery terminals directly. Now the BMS is not in use for driving.

Remember to recharge the battery via the XT90 port ONLY.

[Raro]

perfect thanks

[Burgerman]

XT90 are great and small and light but they dont do very well with repeated use and get loose and burn. Have had them melt on quadcopter batteries. Keep your eye of them. Or use anderson 50 as they seem to last indefinitely and just get easier over time.

The XT90 have a 4 segment pin. It pays to open those up a tiny bit every now and again to keep them tight when connected. Especially if they seem to turn from gold to a dull colour.

[White Lightnin']

Somewhere on this website I've found a sequence of locations where the battery monitoring wires for the Pl8 have been soldered to the Sub connector. Can anyone tell me where it is?

[shirley_hkg]

Hope these help, but it could be very personal.

Belows are MALE Dsub.

[Burgerman]

And...

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -pl8v2.jpg

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... nector.jpg

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... DCABLE.jpg

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... le-40A.jpg

Order no.
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... ectors.txt

[White Lightnin']

Thank you two, both of you. As long as I know the order of the wires in the 9 wire plug going into the Pl8 I will be able to line them up going across the male and female Dsubs. Reliably finding that on the plug is my only problem now.

[shirley_hkg]

You can find pin assignment of current dsub with a multimetre or tester.

What are you attempting ?

[Burgerman]

Just set a multimeter to Ohms.

Measure pins at the PL8 end of the cable, and the opposite end. The one that reads a very low figure well below an ohm is the one you are matching. The rest will be open circuit. Do one at a time 1 to 9 and mark with a bit of tape and a pen.

[emilevirus]

Received the 230Ah for my Bounder. All assembled in less than 1h! Now charging.

[Burgerman]

Takes me a lot longer than that...

All soldered, heat shrunk, taped up, insulated base etc?

[emilevirus]

I use insulated sheets: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007864118122.html?s
I use M6 terminals for balance lead and use silicon caps.

[Burgerman]

All soldered?

What connector? Or BMS?

[emilevirus]

JK BMS then use ZXD to charge. Crimped + soldered.

[Burgerman]

When is test day?

With a battery murdering 12mph bounder and 160Ah (bounder 100 + addon 60) espresso in NY did 80 miles in a day. GPS recorded on his phone. And a bit left over. So used around 150. And you have around 244Ah - thats what I measured on the EVE 230Ah ones. So you should get 150 div by 80 = 1.9Ah per mile? So 128 miles?

Or 100 safely and a full set of MK gel equivelent left over...

Straight lines though most of the day.

[emilevirus]

I expect it to be better than my Magic Extreme X8. I can do about 50 miles with 230Ah.
Before receiving my 230Ah, I put cheapo lifepo4 100ah's in my Bounder and used about 20ah for 5 miles. That's 4ah per miles BUT I have a lot of hills around here. On straight line, flat surface at full speed it took around 15A according to the BMS. Mine is geared to around 9.5mph so around 1.5Ah per mile. So 150 miles with a few ah left actually! That'll never happen though. I expect about half around 85 miles maybe? Everything set to 100% as well. I wonder if it has enough torque to pop wheelies.