Batrey build 230Ah

[sparkerted]

HI,

We are progressing with the 230Ah battery build and I have a couple of questions please.
we have cable tied the balance cables, is this a problem heat wise, we need to be very careful we do not catch any wires when we slide the pack into the powerchair their is not a lot of room, The other question the charging connector we're having the problem that the covers/shell covers are small can some one give me a part number that accommodates all the balance and charging cables on the DB25 Connector please.
a couple of photos, Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
Mark

[shirley_hkg]

Simply enlarge the opening with tools in hand.

Balance wires won't get hot at all.

[Burgerman]

I used 12 gauge silicone wires on charge cable. And it all fitted neatly in a stock alloy backshell.
Lots here: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=alloy+ ... iax=images

These ones

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -pl8v2.jpg

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... nector.jpg

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... DCABLE.jpg

Same on the chair.

[sparkerted]

Thanks for the replies we used 10 gauge, thats are problem.

[Burgerman]

Yes. So you are a bit screwed. Change wires or dont bother with a backshell or modify the shell. Only choices. Use 12 gauge for the charger end cable.

Tappe a bit of plastic sheet above all the terminals for when you fit the battery to prevent sparks...

[sparkerted]

Yep, we have some nut caps to go on, we tried to follow the instructions on the forums, but there is a lot of information to read, I've tried to take everything onboard, like crimping and soldering and the order of attaching the wires to the battery terminals, etc. If the gauge of the wire is the only mistake i've made I will be very a happy man! other mistakes could be very costly, not doing any install today, hopefully we will complete the install tomorrow.

[Burgerman]

You are going to be very shocked how far that battery will carry you.

[shirley_hkg]

Plastic shell is as good, and is easier to enlarge or even add cutouts.

[sparkerted]

Yes shirley, we did get a plastic shell that works.
Well slid the battery tray in and all good, have been using the Powerchair last night and this morning.
I'm grateful for everybody's contributions to these forums that have made this LifePo4 install possible thank you.

[Burgerman]

So now you have 80 to 100 miles range. Where are you going?

So you could do 3 marathon runs back to back.

OK then:
Can you win?

[sparkerted]

I do, Thank you.
Next thing to do is try and move the seat back, I have found this am I heading in the right direction? thanks.

Dietz-Sango-User-Manual.pdf

(146.58 KiB) Downloaded 16 times

[sparkerted]

Actually I think I have found it, this is what is applicable to my chair

[Burgerman]

On that diagram there are C and D bolts. I had to move both. The top ones were moved to new holes. The bottom ones allow about 2.5 inches rearwards at once.

The result is that you can move the seat back a lot!

Heres my reflection in the only mirror I coud see. A shop...

And while at it I added 4 spacers under the seat. Because I like to sit with around 5 degrees or so of "dump" angle. Now you CAN just tilt the seat back. But thats wobbly and feels like you are mounted of rubber. It not solid enough and will damage the actuator long term. I even saw a crcked seat frame. Expresso in new york.

So I added from memory some 18mm diameter alloy spacer. 8mm hole, and around 20mm at the back. And around 50mm at the front. The seat is FULLY DOWN in this reflection in a shop window.

And the drive wheel is under my backside. If anything its a little too tippy.
I used 2 "lift off" single post arm uprights per side in order to stop the arms being wobbly... The lift up ones are weak. The signgle post ones are better but can be improved. Programming was dismal. Also fixed.

[shirley_hkg]

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... =2&t=12461

[sparkerted]

BM Shirley thank you.
Not sure I can move it any further back

[Burgerman]

Your picture cuts off the rear. But I see 3 ways on the base, and then theres the mounting bolts under the seat too.

Here are the bolts you need to remove and to move the seat...

If you look closely you can see I moved the seat back a lot. And you can JUST see the end of a seat dump spacer UNDER the seat to add "dump" when tilt fully lowered.
On my chair, RED and BLUE bolts allow seat to go back. PINK arrow points at a 45 or 50mm spacer.
And the yellow arrow points at doubled up arms for strength.

[Burgerman]

Read this page very carefully!

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... =2&t=12461

[sparkerted]

Hi BM

Were going to revisit the seat on Tuesday afternoon to see what the challenges are, I assume you need some type of lifting gear to support/help move the seat to the rear?

updated photo,

Thanks Mark

[Burgerman]

My lifting gear was called "martin"...
Martin is a carer/personal assistant type.

But yes it was actually quite easy. But the seat dump spacers was very fiddly and frustrating to get right 3rd go!


This gives better idea of seat position. I may have gone a bit too far as its very tippy now. I dont mind - some might. I reverse up anything steep now. Or...

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... &mode=view

Remember your battery is light too.

[Burgerman]

Just made a pic that says a 1000 words.

[sparkerted]

My problem at the moment is very nose heavy, I put a set of Pneumatic tyres on it, as soon as I go out in it I'm loosing tyre pressure due to potholes on roads and pavements turning becomes more difficult due to loss of air pressure, pneumatic tyres make for a much more comfortable rides, I have put the solid caster wheels back on. Thanks for the comments above, i did add anti-tip wheels to the rear as it didn't have any

[shirley_hkg]

Post a side shot of WHOLE chair, so we could guess the CG.

[Burgerman]

Tyre pressures CANNOT be lost due to pot holes etc.

If you have pressure loss then check valves (fit new! Quality ones) and tyre seal if tubeless or tube quality if tubes. I have 5 chairs with tubeless and tube type tyres and all are solid, no loss of pressure in the last 6 or 7 months. If you do,, you have other problems.

My problem at the moment is very nose heavy,

I suspect that you have 2 problems. All stock rear drive chairs are stupidly nose heavy making them steer terribly and feel about a mile long. You sit on the front... That stops it turning. COMPOUNDED BY:
TERRIBLE PROGRAMMING making it 100 times worse. See programming guide.

[sparkerted]

I believe it was purchased originally for a short lady, so chair was set up for her, It had legrests and I changed it to a centre mount electric footrest, really heavy, so have raised seat, moved back rest as far back as possible, hence seat is next to be moved. BM I have your R-Net settings on my chair. (I have a dongle). i'm probably sat just above the front edge of the rear wheel looking at photo tyres will look into that, they are caster wheels/tyres from Sango dietz. I think there is significant weight on the front of the chair.

[Burgerman]

Well then it should be fine.

What is it doing badly?

[sparkerted]

So moving the chair seat to the rear was easier than we thought, we tried the dump and its not for me, put the pneumatic caster wheels/tyres back on and all seems good, moving the CG back seems to have solved my problems. BM/Shirley thank you.